"We traveled to a black freshwater tributary today. The
water is black due to the tannic acid in the leaves that fall in the water.
Where the Napo met this river was like coffee meeting cream, swirling. The
smell of the black water was more like stale, stagnant tea than the muddy Napo."

The View from Our Room at Napo
"The first night at Napo there
was a guy in the room next door who brushed his teeth for 20 minutes! We
timed him! We laughingly told Armando and the next night we were in a
different room. It was very sweet."